We flew
out of Adelaide on 19th May, a chilly morning. Winter had arrived. I
was looking forward to spending summer in Europe. [Dave less so.]
This journey is not only an escape from winter but an attempt to
distance myself from personal anxieties and gain a new perspective on
things.
Because I can't sleep on planes and experience jet lag for several days, I had planned a slow trip. Our first destination was Perth for one night. We walked along the Swan river where water-birds dried their outstretched wings in the late afternoon sun.
A
newspaper headline in the mall caught my eye. "Burka an Insult
to Women". I thought it was a provocative headline given we were
heading for the middle east.
An early
morning departure got us into Dubai in the afternoon for a two night
stopover. From the window of the plane there was nothing to see but
beige desert sand. In contrast, the airport was as opulent as the set
for the Ziegfeld Follies or some other Broadway extravaganza. It was
shiny and light and spacious with massive silver columns. The Arab
men at passport control were dressed from head to toe in traditional
white robes.
Outside
the 43 degree heat was oppressive and the blue of the skies was
blurred by the beige fog of sand which thickened the air.
On the metro we rode past kilometres of skyscrapers, beige with blue reflective glass. It looked as if someone had built a virtual city out of shiny cream lego blocks in a giant sandpit.
Too hot to be out of doors, we headed for one of the many massive multi-story shopping malls with their glittering shops and prestigious western brand names.
There was an indoor snow covered mountain slope with a chair lift, skiers, snow laden fir trees and warmly clad children throwing snowballs.
We watched through the windows as if looking at one of those glass paperweights with the snow scenes inside.
I find in Dubai a mass of contradictions. Muslim and rigidly controlled, yet with massive billboards flaunting indulgent images of consumption.
In the shops we saw many Arabic couples where the male dressed in the white robes contrasts with the woman fully covered in black. As starkly black and white as the guidelines we read in our hotel room. No knees or shoulders to be revealed. No see through fabrics allowed.
It is a crime to approach women unsolicited and displays of affection, even between married couples are not tolerated.
But I watched traditionally dressed couples hold hands and giggle as they purchased a Nespresso machine. Others smiled affectionately at each other as they pushed the pram into a trendy children's wear boutique.
I sat in the women and children's area in the bus while Dave stood with the men at the back. I felt a sense of safety away from the male gaze.
Perhaps it is not black and white!
Not to be outdone, at 829.84m, the 'Leaning Tower of Dubai',
Burj Khalifa, is also the world's tallest building. |
43 degree heat and sand fog and no kissing in public...not on my list.
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