Do
arrive by slow ferry [four and a half hours from Korcula] and sit
out on the deck to appreciate the views of the limestone spine of
mountains which extend all the way along the Dalmation coast.
Don't
get bitten on your bare arm by one of those oversized European wasps.
The pain is intense and spreads over most of your arm. However the
barman on the ferry will rip up a nice white cotton cloth to wrap
ice-cubes to press against the inflamed area.
Do
stay in an apartment on the water front in Babin Kuk where a lovely
blonde Croatian woman in a long sleeveless black dress greets you
with a drink and home-made apple strudel, before leading you to your
room with your own terrace overlooking the harbour. Watch the cruise
ships arriving every day.
Don't
go into the old city of Dubrovnik when there is a cruise ship
which looks like a multi-story apartment building or, even worse,
when there are two of them berthed in the harbour.
Do
take the cable car which affords thrilling views over the walled city
of Dubrovnik and the surrounding sea and islands.
Don't
take the cable car if you are afraid of heights or being in a
swinging glass capsule with a steep ascent and a long way to fall.
Do
walk the city walls late in the day when the oblique light is
most flattering to the white marble, terracotta tiles and blue sea.
You will actually be able to walk at your own pace because the large
groups will have returned to their cruise ships. This will give you
many opportunities to stop to take photos or just to ponder the
resilience of this city which has been rebuilt after earthquakes and
shelling.
Don't walk the city walls when it is very hot and humid and you have a bad back.
Do
see Dubrovnik at night. The grand buildings are even more magnificent
when illuminated. Go to a classical concert or listen to live jazz at
the bar with the upright piano next to the Dubrovnik cathedral.
Don't
buy more than one glass of wine or a meal unless you are prepared to
pay outrageous prices. Dubrovnik is the most expensive place in
Croatia.
Do
swim off the rocks or at one of the little pebble beaches like
Copacobana in Babin Kuk or Lapad. Or take one of the many cruises to
one of the nearby islands where the water is cleaner and even
clearer.
Don't
go to the beach on a warm Sunday when all the locals fill every
space with sun lounges and umbrellas. Loud pop songs blast over the
beach and the waitresses at the beach front cafes are surly because
they would rather be swimming or sunbathing than serving.
Do
eat fresh fish [or seafood if you like it] at one of the harbour
front or roof top restaurants outside the old city, where the prices
and quality are good, and the ambience is romantic enough.
Don't
eat much of the soft white Croatian bread and tempting ice-creams
unless you want to end up looking like me.
Do
try the local wines.
Don't
try the local beer because it is so refreshing on a hot day that
you will end up looking like me.
Do take a day tour to Montenegro in a minibus with Adriatic tours.
Don't forget… the three Cs of Croatia
– Croatian Island,
Cruise liner and City
of Dubrovnik 'Old Town'.
No comments:
Post a Comment