When
we visited the Alhambra on a hot day last week, we saw patches of snow
on the mountains in the distance. So we decided to go there.
I
love hot weather. Mid-thirties is just perfect for me. I feel energised
and alive. But Dave is as uncomfortable in the heat as I am in the
cold. He was looking puffy and lethargic, struggling to cope and
preferring to stay in our air-conditioned apartment when I ventured out.
We
thought it would be cooler up in the mountains. A dose of fresh
mountain air, peace and space would be a welcome break from busy
Granada.
At 9am on Monday, we caught a bus from Granada estacion de autobuses to Sierra Nevada. It took about an hour to ascend a steep winding road which happens to be the highest road in Europe!
Apart from two French girls in shorts, giggling on the back seat, we were the only passengers.
We
were deposited on the barren mountain above the ski resort outside the
the only open cafe/bar, with a promise from the driver that we would be
picked up at 5pm aqui [here] as he pointed to the spot where he
had stopped. The place was deserted, but I was sure that all the
tourists would be up in their cars or coaches for lunch.
We
fortified ourselves with strong coffee, toast and marmalade, then
wondered how we would spend the next 7 hours. There was a cold wind
blowing so I put on my woollen jumper which I had brought in case it was
cool. I also had a singlet top under my shirt and my trench coat
stuffed in my back pack as I am terrified of the cold. Dave had
dismissed my suggestion that he pack a light rain jacket.
He was exhilarated by the crisp mountain air.
We
saw the French girls ambling on the slopes so decided to walk to keep
warm. The mountain, which is a ski slope until late May, was bleak,
rocky and devoid of vegetation. The scree path was steep and slippery.
The wind was freezing, whipping my face and hair and giving me ear ache.
At times it was so strong that it nearly pushed me over. I covered my
ears with my hands as I walked.
We
had ignored a sign which I had roughly translated as "Conditions can
change rapidly. Do not proceed without walking poles, boots, coats and
supplies." [If any of my bush walking friends are reading this they will
be shaking their heads in disbelief!]
But we looked at the light sky and the mountain peak visible in the distance, and continued along the track.
After
a while, we passed the French girls, who had donned cardigans,
sheltering from the wind behind a rocky outcrop. Some horses galloped
with us at the start of the walk, but had circled back. The French girls
didn't continue either, and we were the only hikers for the next three
hours, struggling up towards the peak.
Occasionally
we glimpsed lycra-clad cyclists, arduously making their way up a
bitumen road which we crossed from time to time. There were no cars.
The
panoramic views back to Granada were hazy. It would be stunning up
there on a still, clear day, when sometimes you can make out the coast
of Africa.
After
a while, I saw Dave bent over, close to the ground. He had noticed tiny
alpine wild-flowers, nestled like jewels in the crown of the shiny mica
rocks. He was in his element with his camera in the cold.
I
was gasping for air like a floundering old fish. Was it the altitude I
wondered, or merely too much of the good food and wine of Andalusia?
After a while it reminded me of that children's song, "the bear went over the mountain", because as we topped each peak, a higher one was revealed.
Eventually, we came to patches of glistening snow... we seemed to be following animal tracks rather than any clear trail.
The wind was relentless and now the sun was disappearing behind clouds which rapidly rose over the ridge of the ranges. We were so close to the highest peak, Pico Veleta, at an altitude of 3,398 metres, but I saw a black cloud rolling over the ridge and sensed a sudden change in the atmosphere. "We are going back", I shouted against the wind. I grabbed Dave's hand which felt very cold.
The wind was relentless and now the sun was disappearing behind clouds which rapidly rose over the ridge of the ranges. We were so close to the highest peak, Pico Veleta, at an altitude of 3,398 metres, but I saw a black cloud rolling over the ridge and sensed a sudden change in the atmosphere. "We are going back", I shouted against the wind. I grabbed Dave's hand which felt very cold.
"No. I want a picture from up there. I am staying," Nature Boy replied.
"Come now! Hurry!" I insisted as I clambered down. He followed. The rain started within seconds.
We scrambled down until we found the road. I had my trench coat on, but it had no hood.
Dave was in a cotton shirt and trousers. The rain turned to sleet, and as we got wetter, the wind chilled us even more.
I started running [something I have avoided for most of my 60+ years] and Dave strode vigorously.
He
was very wet. I hoped a car would miraculously appear and pick us up,
but there was no-one on the mountain except a cyclist sitting on the
side of the road. He stared blankly at us.
I
was panicking. It could take another hour to get down the mountain.
Hypothermia was the word on my mind. If only I had insisted Dave pack
the rain jacket.
Luckily, after about 20 minutes, the rain stopped, the clouds blown away by the ferocious wind, and the sun shone.
By the time we reached the Aubergue, we had dried out completely, and a long lunch in the restaurant seemed like the only sensible proposition.
Carol and Old Dog |
But the Rioja
[the regional red wine made from the high altitude tempranillo grapes]
was excellent. We stayed in the warmth as long as we could, but the chef
hovered as if he wanted to close, so we decided it was time for a
siesta for him and for us.
The
problem was, we had nowhere to go. We walked further down the mountain,
rounded a craggy peak where it was more sheltered and where the views
over mountains and valleys were magnificent. We heard the tinkling of
sheep bells, and saw a flock huddling under a rocky ledge.
It was while we were sitting there on a large warm flat rock, gazing at the breathtaking view, that we had our idea for a new business venture; a new 'extreme sport' for the over sixties, 'Rock Sitting'.
We
could take people in minibuses to places where there were suitable
rocks to sit on and stunning views to admire. Too often older people see
the views fleetingly from a coach window or when they file out to take
"the" photograph from a lookout point.
Our
venture will offer a way for the older traveller to participate in a
new extreme sport which involves little more than sitting, albeit in a
peaceful, remote setting.
We would charge an extra three euros for a cushion and an extra two for a parasol.
For
the exhausted or infirm, we have invented 'Rock Lying'. I tried this
out, but found I had to use my trench coat as a sort of tent to keep off
the sun and shelter me from the wind. The downside of this was that I
couldn't see the view.
I'd rather lie on a rock than be in bed listening to power tools next door.
ReplyDeleteGood. You can be our first client.
DeleteWe were lucky to be moved from our funky apartment in the historical Cuesta Gomerez street [where the guitar makers are], because of the building works next door.
It was such a great location but the noise was unbearable.
there may be a trend developing here.... in Phnom Penh, luke booked online a great hotel close to the river, with what we thought were online special rates. When we rolled up in the tuk tuk the entire building next door to ours was surrounded by scaffolding..and the next two days of 5am construction work flashed before my eyes!
Delete